Trany Shudder dct and steering stiffness - Hyundai Elantra GT Turbo & Elantra GT N Performance Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Unread 11-29-2019, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Trany Shudder dct and steering stiffness

Hi all i have a 2019 dct Ntype. So since i bought the car i noticed the trany will shudder when i take my foot off the brake and i lightly gas the car to move. not much of an issue i figure its the dual clutchs engaging. I find it shakes much less if i have it in triptronic. but the other day i had the car in second and was at maybe 5km hr when the light changed so i put my foot on the gas a bit. but instead of the car going the revs shot up and my car did not move. it seemed like the the car just jumped out of gear or unclutched the trany. I quickly shifted to neutral then back to drive and the car moved as predicted. Any idea why this would happen?

I have been having issues where the car is super lacking response to the gas peddle. I would have up to 4 -5 seconds of delay till the car figured out i was hitting the gas. normally this just mostly feels like the clutch simply is not engauging in the dct cause the car will roll backwards or forwards if i am on a hill. it is a intermittent issue cause at other times the car runs and drives as you would expect it just goes soon as you hit the gas.

my other issue is the faster i go the harder it is to turn my steering wheel. at 60 i have to arm wrestle the steering wheel to make a turn. at highway speeds i feel like i am dragging a dead body under the car and they got stuck in the steering wheels which also causes my car to slow down massively fast once i take my foot off the peddle. I also can barely turn the wheel at this point. my car is hitting 10.6 km per 100 on highway and 12.6 in town. I know i don't have the gentalist of foot but i often do not just punch the peddle and often drive in tiptronic to maximize engine power and fuel efficiency.

I need to do a big trip with the car soon so looking for any recommendations. I am thinking of draining the trany and puting in ams trany to hopefully help the clutchs engauge. and think i may hit the dealer to do a wheel alignment if i ever have time to that is.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Unread 11-29-2019, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Deathjam4 View Post
Hi all i have a 2019 dct Ntype. So since i bought the car i noticed the trany will shudder when i take my foot off the brake and i lightly gas the car to move. not much of an issue i figure its the dual clutchs engaging. I find it shakes much less if i have it in triptronic. but the other day i had the car in second and was at maybe 5km hr when the light changed so i put my foot on the gas a bit. but instead of the car going the revs shot up and my car did not move. it seemed like the the car just jumped out of gear or unclutched the trany. I quickly shifted to neutral then back to drive and the car moved as predicted. Any idea why this would happen?

I have been having issues where the car is super lacking response to the gas peddle. I would have up to 4 -5 seconds of delay till the car figured out i was hitting the gas. normally this just mostly feels like the clutch simply is not engauging in the dct cause the car will roll backwards or forwards if i am on a hill. it is a intermittent issue cause at other times the car runs and drives as you would expect it just goes soon as you hit the gas.

my other issue is the faster i go the harder it is to turn my steering wheel. at 60 i have to arm wrestle the steering wheel to make a turn. at highway speeds i feel like i am dragging a dead body under the car and they got stuck in the steering wheels which also causes my car to slow down massively fast once i take my foot off the peddle. I also can barely turn the wheel at this point. my car is hitting 10.6 km per 100 on highway and 12.6 in town. I know i don't have the gentalist of foot but i often do not just punch the peddle and often drive in tiptronic to maximize engine power and fuel efficiency.

I need to do a big trip with the car soon so looking for any recommendations. I am thinking of draining the trany and puting in ams trany to hopefully help the clutchs engauge. and think i may hit the dealer to do a wheel alignment if i ever have time to that is.
I've never driven a DCT, only lots and lots of manuals. My understanding is that when you're on the brake fully, the clutch plate is disengaged (spinning free), and when you are off the brake the clutch plate is fully engaged (ultimately connected to the drive wheels). As you pull your foot off the brake, the car is engaging the clutch for you, and I'm going to assume also some slight throttle to ensure the car can roll forward if you don't hit the accelerator in time --otherwise you'd stall. I suppose the other option is that it leaves the clutch free with the brakes applied until you press the gas?

Shudder (or full lugging) is normal if the engine isn't getting enough gas for the gear it's in. A light shutter is common on a manual if you're not giving it enough gas to roll from a stop in first. In stop and go traffic I had to get used to the gearing to not select too high of a gear for the speed (and road incline). If you mismatch too much, you shudder and potentially stall.

For the time your car went out of gear and pegged the rpms, it sounds like it was trying to prevent a stall. It also sounds like maybe something is up with your idle speed and you should have it checked by the shop.

Sorry there's so much guessing in my reply about the DCT. All these automatic "smarts" are why I keep the clutch pedal.

Good luck!
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Unread 11-30-2019, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Hey i have no quarl with your guess work it all sounds to make sense to me. I just have never driven more then standard motorcycles and one rather scary manuel pickup truck lol. But yes what your saying all does rather make sense. This is more or less the result of letting mechanicals handle the work of a human its not always perfect right out of the box. I think your defantly onto something cause i was more or less thinking along the same lines as you. my manuel did say there was some quirkiness to the trany but woof when you punch and nothing comes out when you expect to go your heart skips a beat :P.

Ill likely take it in when i have the time to do so which is not terribly often honestly. I may just have to call the dealer and see if they know anything about this. Ill try and hunt down some bultins or something. to bad this was not audi i have tons of contacts there i drove um for 15 years :P
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Unread Today, 08:42 AM
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Answer to the dct, after having a'12 and '14 Ford Focus with dct the low speed shutter is pretty normal. In my case with the '12 the main input seal keep leaking and required 5 warranty clutch pack changes. They finally got it right the last time. You can check with the dealer to see if there is a software update that will allow the dct to engage a bit more aggressively. Ford was able to do it for both my Focus which pretty much eliminated the shutter.
As for the delay, if you really feel it is the clutches then definitely get it back to the dealer. In my case (I have the 2.0 Auto) the delay in accelerating is waiting for the engine to "come on the cam", waiting for it to reach 3000-3500 rpm and I am also hindered by the **** throttle cut off because I am a left foot braker when I drive an automatic. The Focus had it but allowed a little leeway where as the GT instantly cuts the power, so the car goes flat and even though I've had the car for a year it still catches me out especially on the highway where I want to get the rpms up to "squirt" into the other lane.
Also in my case I was unable to find a GT Sport anywhere within 700 miles that had the package and color I wanted so I went with the base with style and tech and will say I wise I had more power but I am pleased with the car.
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