[wriggly]

I read about the forward facing drain plug and thought I had the problem aced. My driveway is pretty steep and I checked the level of the car in the garage then pulled it out and up on ramps on the driveway. The car was level once on the ramps.

The change went well with the exception that the drain plug washer was painted to the plug and took a little effort to remove so I could install a new washer. In hindsight, I could’ve reused the original because it was pretty pristine.

I have to come up with a new plan for the next change, the Rhino ramps tended to slide on my smooth blacktop driveway going up and it took a couple of tries to get the car up on the ramps. Getting off the ramps was a bit of a trip, the ramps spit out the front as I started to back off.

I used Mobil 1 extended synthetic and a Hyundai filter and replacement drain plug washer. I missed the suggestions about stuffing some paper towels behind the drain plug and had to clean out a little oil from on top of the pan. Won’t forget that next time. I was really surprised at how much oil drained out from the filter when I cracked it loose.

Now I have to figure out a better way to get the car up level instead of monkeying around with the Rhino ramps. Maybe the long race ramps that you drive up with all four wheels.
I definitely like the satisfaction of doing it myself and knowing the drain plug is torqued properly. I don’t trust the knuckleheads at the dealers.

 

[wriggly]

Thought I’d add another thought. I originally bought an 80mm filter socket from the local parts store. It was a somewhat loose sloppy fit and I noticed that the extension protrudes into the socket enough to make contact with the filter causing it to rock a bit and unless you have it pressed onto the filter firmly and level, it could slip. I managed to remove the filter okay, but I did some research to see if there weren’t a better option. I got one of these today from Amazon and it’s a 79mm. Perfect fit and and can be used with a half inch extension with no protruding into the socket. It can also be used with a socket In place of an extension.

Amazon.com: Jetech Oil Filter Cap Wrench 79mm x 15 Flute, Oil Filter Cap Wrench, Socket Type Oil Filter Cap Remover Tool with 15 Flutes and 79mm Inner Diameter for Toyota, Nissan, Subaru, Kia : Automotive

Buy Jetech Oil Filter Cap Wrench 79mm x 15 Flute, Oil Filter Cap Wrench, Socket Type Oil Filter Cap Remover Tool with 15 Flutes and 79mm Inner Diameter for Toyota, Nissan, Subaru, Kia: Oil Filter Wrenches - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Deathjam4]

I dont ussaly require a tool at all.. if the filter is on that tight you are either removimg the factory squeezed filter or you put it on to tight. It should be only as tight as you can turn it on by hand. And if you put some oil on the ring it wont stick. As for draining just make sure its flat or if you have it at a slope you can just use a jack to shift it. I been doing mjne on a hoist at work soooo... its always flat lol. I just let it drip till it stops and do somebother basic checks on bushings and brakes and boots. I also remove the belly pan on every oil change it makes it aaalllloottt easier trust me. My factory filter was on so tight they crushed the filter lip i had a 3 ft pipe wrench i had to use to take it off..... yeaaaaa never been that bad since then lol

 

[wriggly]

I dont ussaly require a tool at all.. if the filter is on that tight you are either removimg the factory squeezed filter or you put it on to tight. It should be only as tight as you can turn it on by hand. And if you put some oil on the ring it wont stick. As for draining just make sure its flat or if you have it at a slope you can just use a jack to shift it. I been doing mjne on a hoist at work soooo... its always flat lol. I just let it drip till it stops and do somebother basic checks on bushings and brakes and boots. I also remove the belly pan on every oil change it makes it aaalllloottt easier trust me. My factory filter was on so tight they crushed the filter lip i had a 3 ft pipe wrench i had to use to take it off..... yeaaaaa never been that bad since then lol

I get it about not needing a tool. I’m 70 years old and have pretty bad arthritis and Dupuytrens contracture in both hands, so not enough hand strength anymore to rely on loosening or tightening the filters by hand anymore, especially with the belly pan in place. I’m just happy I can still get down on the ground and squiggle up under there to do it.

I am still able to remove and replace the filters by hand on my Subaru’s though…..for now at least.

 

[Nitro77]

thanks for sharing , It will really helpful for me.

For Viral and Amazing information you should read Zottman-Curl

 

[dac21]

I read about the forward facing drain plug and thought I had the problem aced. My driveway is pretty steep and I checked the level of the car in the garage then pulled it out and up on ramps on the driveway. The car was level once on the ramps.

The change went well with the exception that the drain plug washer was painted to the plug and took a little effort to remove so I could install a new washer. In hindsight, I could’ve reused the original because it was pretty pristine.

I have to come up with a new plan for the next change, the Rhino ramps tended to slide on my smooth blacktop driveway going up and it took a couple of tries to get the car up on the ramps. Getting off the ramps was a bit of a trip, the ramps spit out the front as I started to back off.

I used Mobil 1 extended synthetic and a Hyundai filter and replacement drain plug washer. I missed the suggestions about stuffing some paper towels behind the drain plug and had to clean out a little oil from on top of the pan. Won’t forget that next time. I was really surprised at how much oil drained out from the filter when I cracked it loose.

Now I have to figure out a better way to get the car up level instead of monkeying around with the Rhino ramps. Maybe the long race ramps that you drive up with all four wheels.
I definitely like the satisfaction of doing it myself and knowing the drain plug is torqued properly. I don’t trust the knuckleheads at the dealers.

Just know these engines have a significant fuel dilution issue. Means your 10/30 oil when you do a change winds up 5/20 a couple thousands later. Not enough protection! I just started 10/40 Euro spec oil per the Hyundai Technician Service Bulletin for the 1.6 motor that came out 4 years or so ago.

 

[Deathjam4]

Not sure why you said 10/30 lol its 5w40 you need to put back in the car. If you use anything else especialybin warmer climate areas you run the risk of limp mode activating due to the oil breaking down from dilution as they said. Had it happen alot to me at first its mostly the turbos fault it needs thicker oil or it over spools and the system says no no no .. thats not right limp mode now!. Should be fine till you hit 10k km but next oil change i would change it to 5w40. I use liquid moly in mine and it works great.

And glad to see your still wrenching lol ill be workin on cars till the day i die haha.