DIY Oil Change?

dougefresh said:

Has anyone changed the oil in their GTS yet? Just wondering if there are any quirks/pitfalls to avoid for this specific model. There's not much out there (You Tube, other forums etc.) yet on oil changes for this car.

Click to expand...

I did one. Its a bit of a pain compared to, say, something like my 4Runner, which doesn't require ramps and has the oil filter up top under the hood. Otherwise, its like any other car.

my experience:
- drove front wheels up onto ramps. my driveway is sloped down, so when up on the ramps, the car is actually level. This is important, because the drain plug is actually pointed towards the front of the car. If the car is tilted backwards, you won't drain all of the oil.

- because the drain plug is tilted towards the front of the car, you will need to stuff some paper towels between the bottom of the oil pan and the plastic under-body panel directly to the rear of the drain plug. This will keep the oil from running down the bottom of the pan when the flow becomes a trickle.

- The orientation of the plug makes it a little awkward to loosen/tighten since its on an angle. Its not hard, but it would be much easier if the plug was on the bottom of the pan.

- the oil filter is under the engine, which is a pain. The opening for it is not very large and it can be a little difficult to get up there and twist it on tightly with your hand. For removing it, I highly recommend having an oil filter socket in the right size. I used a pliers type filter tool and it was very hard to get the filter out with it, but its what I had from previous cars / my 4Runner.

- the oil filler hole on top of the engine is small. use a funnel. It took about 4 quarts.

- use an OEM filter. don't buy autoparts store junk filters. save the receipts from when you buy the OEM filters at the dealer and save the receipts for your oil. put them in a binder, with dates on when you do your oil changes and at how many miles. If you have warranty issues, the dealer will try to deny you coverage because you never changed your oil. you will need to push prove that you have, and receipts/records may possibly help. I don't trust dealers anywhere near my cars for fluid changes of any type. These are the jobs that are assigned to the cheapest labor in the shop and have the potential to ruin your car if not done with care. I'd rather fight it out on a warranty denial than let them change my oil incorrectly (wrong oil, not actually change it, overfill, underfill, cross-thread drain plug, under-tighten drain plug, not replace filter, cross thread filter, etc, etc, etc.... all bad things that have happened to people I know).

maybehyundai said:

Did you consider using EZ-oil valve? Since I put it into my current car, oil change is a pure pleasure.

Do you have to remove any bottom engine cover or similar? It looks like this car is pain in the neck for at-home maintenance...

Click to expand...

There are no covers that you have to remove to access the drain plug or oil filter. There is an under-body plastic cover, like on most new cars, but it has holes for access.

Regarding EZ valves, I just don't trust it. I am a mechanical engineer and work in industrial facilities. I have seen too many expensive valves leak or fail to use something like this in this application. Just think about it... you are introducing a new failure point in an area that currently has none. If the valve leaks, gets hit by road debris, etc. you will toast your engine and warranty will not cover it. A drain plug works 100% of the time (provided you correctly install it, which is very easy if you are even remotely paying attention when you do it). I know people use these EZ valves without issue, but I don't think its necessary here. I was able to pull up onto ramps, throw the catch pan under the car, tuck a few paper towels under there and take out the plug, all in about 5 minutes. This was also the first time I did this on this car. The peace of mind I have knowing that my oil won't leak out is worth the few minutes it takes to get under there and take the drain plug out/put it back in.

Again, it only takes ONE of several potential failure modes to occur with an EZ valve and your engine is wrecked, but a drain plug will never let you down.

Yup - all the advice above is spot on... did the same over weekend recently and the downslope / boards trick works for being able to get under and drain as much oil as possible. In addition the rag or paper towels stuffed behind the drain plug help prevent oil from trickling into the plastic undercover guard.

Have included some pictures as visuals always help.

Almost forgot - they are also correct in that from the factory the hyundia oil filter is torqued on there pretty good. I did not have the right cap filter wrenches from previous cars so had to go get right size - it takes a 80mm cap filter. Either pick one up on Amazon or get at your local auto store.

If you want it to go quick get one of these or else prepare to deal with a very tight space in trying to remove. Obviously once removed put whatever filter you want on knowing it might require a different size cap wrench or buy one like a K&N with a hex on the end for easy removal.