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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Disclaimer: This was for testing purposes. I do not take any responsibility for actions taken related to the following information. Anything you do, and any damage or harm caused, based on this information is your responsibility alone.

2020 n line dct tech package....

So having read on some genesis forums about pulling a fuse to completly disable traction control on their cars, I thought I would see if we had any such ability on our cars. After some research and looking closely through the owners manual, I determined that pulling the 10A ABS3 fuse may disable traction control entirely. Just tried it, and it absolutely does. Problem is, it also disables the speedo, high beams, abs, and many other systems, and the dash lights up like a christmas tree. The car is perfectly drivable however, and boy does it drive. You can burnout as much as you want and it will never cut throttle. It will still shift gears when you hit about 6500 rpm, and if you floor it on a turn you can pretty easily lose traction and keep going sideways.

Car is modified some with a res delete, muffler delete, k and n filter, Veloster N intercooler, lightweight wheels, nst pulleys, throttle controller, and a blue spark piggyback, with hks plugs.

I have had serious traction issues, and was curious just how much power I was losing by the throttle cutting when the tires spin, and its quite a bit. The tires are often very quiet when they start spinning, so its hard to tell you are actually loosing grip. I am looking foward to getting some michelin piolt sport as4's, in hopes that will improve traction.

With all that being said, I would be very curious how this would improve times at the track. If definately gives you more control over the car, which means you can make bigger mistakes... so again, try this at your own risk.

Another side note, the power steering was strange with the fuse removed, it was super senseitive for quite a while, then it turned off altogether, and the red wheel light came on the dash. This made the car harder to steer, but not by much, only real hard when stopped, it also may have disabled sport mode, but my throttle controller helps negate the dead pedal feel... the car really felt like a throwback to how cars used to be, I quite enjoyed it.

Once the fuse was back in, the power steering light was still on and the car would not go into sport mode, it would say it was, but you could tell the idle speed did not raise. I was worried that I blew another fuse, or broke something, but after a few minutes of driving, the light went out and it returned to normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you mean before i tried this? Of course, that is how I usually drive, but it never totally gets rid of traction control, even when you hold it down to "completly" deactivate it, it still intetefers once the tires spin too much. You can tell, because it will often shift around 5000 or so rpms even when floored, its cutting throttle. That is why I tried this. Its a different car with the fuse removed. It will spin the tires all day, never shifts below 6500 when floored, etc. Now if we can figure out a way to disable it without all these side effects.
 

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I have slightly looked into the possibility of disabling the traction control completely while having everything else work. But since multiple components are talking to each other over CANBUS that control the traction control/stability even when they were "turned off" with the switch pressed. There was no way for me to trick everything to work because I'm not that smart. The Power Steering ECU is sending info over CAN to the ABS/ESC ECU as well as the SRS ECU(which is detecting when you are going to spin out". I've heard the Australian ABS/ESC ECU doesn't have the issue of completely disabling traction/stability with the switch(and nanny your driving) but they also have a manual hand brake.

I also don't drive hard enough to activate these system's with Traction/Stability disabled from the switch and have a manual so it doesn't affect my shifting at certain RPM's. I did install a alpine video bypass that turns off traction/stability when I start the car with out pressing the button on start up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, i did a little more testing last night. If you pull either the 30 or 40 amp abs fuse it lights up the dash, but traction control still kicks in. If you pull BOTH, then it acts just like pulling only the 10 amp fuse, you lose power steering, speedo, etc. But the one thing that does work, is when you press sport mode, it does change the idle speed and shift points, so that is a plus. Dont care about the power steering too much, if i could just retain the speedo. It may be a good option for the track though to improve times.
 

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I have slightly looked into the possibility of disabling the traction control completely while having everything else work. But since multiple components are talking to each other over CANBUS that control the traction control/stability even when they were "turned off" with the switch pressed. There was no way for me to trick everything to work because I'm not that smart. The Power Steering ECU is sending info over CAN to the ABS/ESC ECU as well as the SRS ECU(which is detecting when you are going to spin out". I've heard the Australian ABS/ESC ECU doesn't have the issue of completely disabling traction/stability with the switch(and nanny your driving) but they also have a manual hand brake.

I also don't drive hard enough to activate these system's with Traction/Stability disabled from the switch and have a manual so it doesn't affect my shifting at certain RPM's. I did install a alpine video bypass that turns off traction/stability when I start the car with out pressing the button on start up.
Will you please elaborate. I can see the part but I am not clear on the wiring. Thanks
 

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Will you please elaborate. I can see the part but I am not clear on the wiring. Thanks
I believe you are asking about wiring the bypass. The bypass blue/white wire will go to the red wire of the car. The bypass black wire will go to the black wire of the car. The bypass yellow/black wire will go to the yellow wire of the car. This is at the connector at the dimmer/bsd/traction switch.
 

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I believe you are asking about wiring the bypass. The bypass blue/white wire will go to the red wire of the car. The bypass black wire will go to the black wire of the car. The bypass yellow/black wire will go to the yellow wire of the car. This is at the connector at the dimmer/bsd/traction switch.
Thanks. I think I understand . No wires are cut then ? You are just splicing in to the existing wires as indicated, adding the bypass to the existing switch. Correct?
 
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