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Well that will do it. Make sure you hold the button down for 5 seconds to completely disable. Just one push doesn’t fully defeat it.
Wait what? So when you press the traction control button and the light says off it's not really off unless you hold it for 5 seconds?
 

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Wait what? So when you press the traction control button and the light says off it's not really off unless you hold it for 5 seconds?
Correct...hold it down for 5 seconds again and it will chime and turn off stability control.
 

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Correct...hold it down for 5 seconds again and it will chime and turn off stability control.
So when I did that another light came on indicating 'anti-collision' disabled. So the short press is for traction or stability control and holding it down for 5 seconds also disables anti-collision--at least for me. I went full option with the tech package so it may be different than yours. I have lane keep assist and smart cruise control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Update on the iat sitiuatuon... maybe someone knows something. Just retrofitted an intercooler off of a veloster n, thinking it would be a cheaper alternative to torks intercooler...at first its 10 to 15 over ambient, then running hard getting iats of 40 to 45 over ambient. And when I cruise after it never gets back below 35 to 40 over. I figured since it's just slightly larger and doesn't have the shitty restrictions like the stock one, that it would cool better, not worse, especially considering I'm running higher boost with the blue spark... seriously wtf? Any ideas? Also with bluespark on E and 93ish octane only managed a 6.5 0 to 60. I think my ebcs may be bad, its the same model sxth sells. Have a n75 valve that I'll be putting on soon to see if it changes anything... modding this car is not turning out to be much fun, just always chasing gremlins it seems... maybe I just need a tune, possible the stock limiters just won't let me do what I want, even with a piggyback.
 

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Does it mount in the same location with no fan pulling air when the car is hot? Its likely still getting heat soaked. I've noticed in hot weather when taking off after sitting at a long red light there's like no boost. In the winter I swear this thing has like 30 to 40 percent more power. Have you looked at all into meth injection or an aftermarket water sprayer like STI's have? I thought about rigging something up to the windshield washer reservoir since its right there and I don't have to worry about it freezing in winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Same location... Yeah, I've thought about it. After more data logging and driving it's usually around 25 to 30 above ambient when cruising. Just after a bunch of hard pulls it gets hotter, but after looking back, its similar to what the stock one was at, maybe a bit cooler... time to bypass the intake manifold coolant and get a 170 degree t Stat to see if that helps some...
 

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Same location... Yeah, I've thought about it. After more data logging and driving it's usually around 25 to 30 above ambient when cruising. Just after a bunch of hard pulls it gets hotter, but after looking back, its similar to what the stock one was at, maybe a bit cooler... time to bypass the intake manifold coolant and get a 170 degree t Stat to see if that helps some...
Messing with the thermostat may cause more issues then you think you may be correcting. Modern engines use temperatures to manage the engine. 2 things I think would help you but are pricey. A Wagner style FMIC and an oil cooler. These are proven to help combat heat issues and restore some of the performance losses. Custom radiator would be another. My Evo lX would be down on power too above 95F until I upgraded to an efficient aftermarket FMIC. Meth injection is also very effective in lowering IAT's. May work well with your current set up.
 
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