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Discussion Starter #41
New Updates. Back at Hyundai dealership for misfire flashing check engine light & TSB rubbing noise in steering wheel, found 2 misfires , will be replacing 2 ignition coils ( 1 of them was the the coil that was just replaced about 2/3 months ago by a different hyundai dealership.

Still at dealership..will be going on 2nd week this Friday.. as they run further tests and get with Hyundai National Techs/Engineers
 

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I'm monitoring this thread as I've had the same issue, usually close to initial star-up for the day. 2020 NLine DCT. Floor the throttle, rpm rise a little with no acceleration but no notifications on instrument panel. Turn car off then back on and problem goes away. Wife had a Tucson that's now part of the class action lawsuit bc their DCT was garbage and the issues feel similar though her vehicle would eventually respond after a few second on throttle, my EGT never does.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
The Issue with Elantra GT N Line .. with either flashing check engine light .. then no acceleration and misfire codes and with multiple replacement of Ignition Coils :

Have spoke to many owners with same issue sometimes dealers replace only 1 or 2 Ignition coils and in other cases all 4 Ignition coils , it is hit or miss how the dealerships fix these issues..yes , it is an intermittent issue but still issue that Hyundai National does not want to acknowledge or knows its an issue but deflects issue back to customer or dealership to resolve !!

There is an issue when replacing ignition coils just delays the next occurrence, customers should hot have to keep replacing ignition coils prior to 50k miles on car!

Customers need to contact hyundai corp and continue to demand a resolution and set up cases and contact https://www.nhtsa.gov to set up complaints so the usa government gets involved

Loss of acceleration when driving can and will cause accident, especially when you are trying to pass or merge onto highway or turning onto a road

I'm getting frustrated with the lack of customer service that Hyundai and dealerships are providing to get this issue researched and solved !!
 

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For what it's worth I have not experienced any of these issues.


This does remind me of issues many folks have experienced with the ecoboost F-150s. Condensation accumulates in the intercooler. When driver hits the gas to accelerate some fluid is sucked into intake. The engine stumbles, does not generate power as expected, and often shows misfire code. I've experienced this two times in my F-150 when trying to pass. It seems that folks that live in dry climates are less likely to experience the issue. The most common fix is to drill a small weep hole on the bottom of the intercooler which allows fluid to drain. The next common fix is to install a catch can.
 

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Just had this issue but it was bad spark plugs rather than coils. First noticeable interaction was my second 2k mile road trip to FL. Complete loss of power when trying to accelerate onto an on ramp following a continued loss of power until I pulled over and turned the car off for 30 minutes. No CEL was on when I took it to the dealership but they were able to find random misfires occurring even without the CEL being on.

Hyundai didn't acknowledge an issue on their end and charged me for the spark plugs on a car with 12k miles.
 

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This thread is giving me the impression that Hyundai doesn't know how to properly treat people when it comes to warranty. I can't imagine how they justified charging you for spark plugs at 12k. I have to admit there is no way I would have accepted paying this bill. It's not too late for you to fight it. Get in touch with management and if that doesn't quickly solve it go straight to Hyundai corporate. Consider going on their twitter and asking why you're being forced to pay for spark plugs at 12k. No reasonable person would consider this acceptable.
 

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So they actually called me not longer after I made that post and said I was accidentally charged too much...

I'll be honest. I didn't even look at how much I was paying. I knew I had to cover the cabin & air filters so I just gave them my card. It wasn't until later I realized it and was like, wtf.

Anyway, Hyundai corrected the problem without me even needing to reach out. I do appreciate the quality of their service so far.
 

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I've found OEM coils on ebay for a reasonable price. I started with 1, then another, then another, until I replaced all 4. The issue is somewhat "better" sometimes, but still there. I was curious as to where most of experiencing issues are from? I'm in Ohio, and here, the laws on fuel testing are very lax and one theory I have is poor gas quality. Now, I travel everyday for my job and get gas from all over the state and nothing every changes, but has anyone else noticed that using high octane fuel makes the issue worse?
 

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hey i am bumping this thread. I have a 2019 gt nline with the dct as well. my car was not throwing codes but it has been following the same line as your car. First thing i did to stop the turbo shut down was changed oil from 5w30 to 5w40. my car has not shut the turbo down more then 2 times after that. I also installed 2 catch cans and did my own update to the coils and plugs swapped to msd coils and hks 40 spark plugs. defiantly not the coils causing my issues now car has a much nicer even spark but idle is still bad. I also had to decarbon the engine by 20k and clean the throtle body. I have been having these issues since 10k and the carbon build up was really bad. I have taken it to the dealer for these issues but same as you no codes nothing wrong. I came across a post tho about an oil line on the turbo working loose that can cause the turbo to cut out. sure sign is lose of oil and oil on the drip tray below. if your dealer finds the cause let me know. I have had to try my own fixes and slowly working my way towards repairing it. I have only managed to banaide it but it always goes back the way it was. only thing i have managed is keep the turbo from shut down. when my oil thins out near the end of its life it does cause the turbo to malfunction again and shut down happened just before my last oil change after crc valve treatment at 5200km into my oil change
 

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Got the GTC505 today to test the ignition system. All signs point to everything working properly. There is no way to know the specs, but comparing readings between cylinders shows a lot of consistency. This is while parked, of course. The probe isn't long enough to use while driving. Not sure if anyone else has one of these things.
I also have a crappy scanner, but it helps.

If anyone here has any diagnostic tools and would like to compare data, I would like to see it. Would also like to see readings from a car that's running well
 

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I've discovered that my oem plugs are shot. The ceramic has started to flake off. I had a set of non oem NGKs that I had for testing that I'm using now. So,. It's likely that the bad coils killed my plugs
With the new plugs and new coils, it certainly runs better, but still kind of buckles under partial load around 3k.
With the ignition analyzer, I can see that burn time of the plugs increases and the voltage decreases when you close the gap, and the opposite when you open the gap. Stock .028 gap is at about 3ms. I decided to see what happens when I close the gap. "Rule of thumb" suggests that turbo breakup can be remedied by closing the gap in increments of .005. I thought this was a bit drastic, so I closed them down to .025. Although this lengthens the burn time, it seemed to smooth out the hiccups a lot. Almost completely gone. To make sure I wasn't crazy, I opened the gaps up to .030 to see if there was any difference and the issue is back in full. I will likely attempt to gap them down to .023 to see how that goes. If there aren't any misses or voltage spikes, I'll likely leave it there and give up before I pull all my hair out
 

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2020 Elantra GT N Line Fluid Metal 6MT
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I have not had major idle issues as many of you have posted. The only problem I have had was with the accelerator pedal module going out on me just as I was trying to accelerate. Engine light came on, engine would rev but it would be very little and very slow to get up to speed. Obviously went into limp mode because it lost track of the accelerator pedal position.

I am getting a slight hesitation every once in a while. Don't know what the cause is but I'm going to look into the gap on the spark plugs. I have read that is an issue on the 2019 and 2020 N Line's that can cause hesitation and idle issues.
 

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I've discovered that my oem plugs are shot. The ceramic has started to flake off. I had a set of non oem NGKs that I had for testing that I'm using now.
How many miles on the plugs? I believe the manual states they're to be changed at 43k miles. I'm due in a couple thousand miles. I think I'll be going OEM.
 

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How many miles on the plugs? I believe the manual states they're to be changed at 43k miles. I'm due in a couple thousand miles. I think I'll be going OEM.
About 30k. It's already back to running like poo anyway. It runs well for like 3 days after I reset the computer no matter what I do. I can see some high voltage on my coils. This could indicate an issue in fuel or compression, but it's likely the plug or the coil. I haven't had a chance to meet with it lately. I'm likely going to buy a different scope so I can monitor while driving.
 

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After reading this thread I ran across this info article that explains why oil companies recently changed the formulation to bring about a new standard.


It seems to (combat low speed pre-ignition) LSPI specifically in GDI turbo motors they created a new classification called SN plus. Seems to be a lot of head scratching even with the dealers.
I will be changing my own oil in my '20 N-line @ 1000 miles. with the new classification. I also looked to see if it is available in 5W-40 yet and it is not. Also install a catch can. I already installed new HKS M45XL plugs (1-step colder) gapped at .27 in or .7 mm. because I run a piggy back. I will periodically pull the plugs to see how they look. I also run top tier fuels. Will see if I have any problems as the miles pile on.
 
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