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I ran an E30 tune in my Fiesta ST. The FiST only has a 12 gallon tank so I would add about 3 gallons of E-85 per empty tank. I used a calculator app for in between fill ups. On our tank which is 14 gallons I would figure 4 gallons would bump you up to at least 93 oct equivalent. Here is a link to a calculator:
Have used E85 on all my boosted cars. My Evo made 450 whp with it.
 

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I ran an E30 tune in my Fiesta ST. The FiST only has a 12 gallon tank so I would add about 3 gallons of E-85 per empty tank. I used a calculator app for in between fill ups. On our tank which is 14 gallons I would figure 4 gallons would bump you up to at least 93 oct equivalent. Here is a link to a calculator:
Have used E85 on all my boosted cars. My Evo made 450 whp with it.
great info thanks man. 450whp GOTTTTTTTTT DAMN!
 

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I think you're misunderstanding me maybe. The BOV solenoid is the MAC BOV, it's not an actual blow off valve, small component that they wouldn't know isn't stock even if they looked at it. The boost solenoid is basically the same deal, looks stock and would really have to investigate it to notice a difference.

Unless there's a specific problem with either of those, they wouldn't even be looking for/at them. Also keep in mind even with modifications, they have to prove that the modification caused the failure. Taking it in for an oil change I imagine they wouldn't even notice either of those components. Major service/warranty work I can't say for sure.

To me, it's still very much a plug and play solution since it doesn't map the ECU. The other supporting mods aren't necessary for it to WORK, but for it to really perform like a tune, to me, you need those two parts replaced.

Also keep in mind you don't have to mod your car at all. Pretty peppy in it's stock form!

Edited for clarity.
I'm well aware of the difference between a solenoid and the actual wastegate or BOV. Factory techs are trained to look for non OEM stuff, so you are betting against them finding it.

The wastegate solenoid does not look stock, it has rubber hoses now with zip ties. Zip ties on the ends is a dead giveaway. The MAC BOV solenoid does not fit in the original bracket, so it just kind of hangs there, again, that doesn't look stock at all.

Hey, nothing bad against these parts, I just installed mine today, but this is the game you play when you mod a car and this is definitely modding. My main reason for doing it is to smooth out the power delivery. It's jumpy like my old WRX was from the factory.
 

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I'm well aware of the difference between a solenoid and the actual wastegate or BOV. Factory techs are trained to look for non OEM stuff, so you are betting against them finding it.

The wastegate solenoid does not look stock, it has rubber hoses now with zip ties. Zip ties on the ends is a dead giveaway. The MAC BOV solenoid does not fit in the original bracket, so it just kind of hangs there, again, that doesn't look stock at all.

Hey, nothing bad against these parts, I just installed mine today, but this is the game you play when you mod a car and this is definitely modding. My main reason for doing it is to smooth out the power delivery. It's jumpy like my old WRX was from the factory.
So was it able to smooth things out for you?
 

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Hey, nothing bad against these parts, I just installed mine today, but this is the game you play when you mod a car and this is definitely modding. My main reason for doing it is to smooth out the power delivery. It's jumpy like my old WRX was from the factory.
So was it able to smooth things out for you?
Can't really tell, winter happened and dumped a ton of water and snow, which freezes on the roads due to low sun, getting the snow tires put on tomorrow though, so should be able to figure it out in the coming week or two.
 

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Nice....Install that and have some fun!
So, after running the Bluespark for a few days I'll highlight my pros and cons for this part. I will use the SXTH Element stage 0 tune as a reference point since that's what I had on my Veloster for years.

Cons: This is just tricking the ECU into producing more boost. You still have the funky tune from the factory except now when the boost comes on its much more aggressive. Up against the SXTH tune it is inferior in the sense that on the proper tune my Veloster would jump to 21 pounds of boost from 2,500 damn near to redline. This just produces more boost on the factory tune. SXTH was power on tap, this still has a bit of lag on it.

Pros: This is a marked improvement over stock. If you keep your shifts up in the rev band you stay in boost much better vs stock. It will chirp second gear if you get on it and it pulls much harder than stock. Passing power in 6th gear on the highway, 4th gear pulls like a beast on the highway. If I had to put a number on it I would say this is 2/3rds of the joy from the SXTH Stage 0 tune at half the price. Install was 10 minutes since I don't have a stock airbox to remove.

I'm still on the recommended "C" setting that it came set to. Once I do plugs, packs, downpipe etc. I'm thinking of moving it to D and see how the car performs.

Is anybody on here running it on the D setting? If so could you list your mods and what your impression is vs the C setting?
 

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The "boost" boxes will never be better than an actual "good" tune. Coming from the Evo world I have spent countless hours on a dyno and road tuning my '06 Evo IX. I have tuned and been tuned on 91 oct, 100 oct and E-85.
Fast forward to my N-line. Nowadays dealers are on to tuned vehicles. I will not invest into an additional ECU to have it available to swap out in the event I need to. Plus the cost of having someone tune it that puts the cost over 1K which is not in the cards for me. For anyone else who wants this then great.....enjoy.
The piggyback serves its purpose fine to me. Heck in the early days guys would just use a manual boost controller and step up boost that way. Now the piggyback senses and does this. If you run one with precautions you will be fine. I changed to the recommended plugs and run over 91 oct if I go to Sport+ or Race settings. I will upgrade the wastegate solenoid as all have mentioned as the stocker starts stuttering and is inconsistent. I intend on getting a boost gauge and start doing some logging as well.
Since I only paid $250 for my scorcher and $277 for my Takata stg 2 intake I am happy with the performance/fun factor. Can't see getting anymore performance since N-line is just FWD and a single tire fryer.
So does the Bluespark have 4 settings too? Scorcher has Stock, Sport, Sport+ and Race. I assume A,B,C and D may correlate to about the same on the Bluespark.
 

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Been driving with the bluespark for a while now. Has made a huge difference, then added a pierburg valve in the wg side and it's just all around better and more consistent. Honestly traction is my biggest issue at this point. With my lightweight wheels I cannot floor it anymore and not spin the tires even in 2nd gear... so once these burn off I will be looking for some better rubber.
 

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Been driving with the bluespark for a while now. Has made a huge difference, then added a pierburg valve in the wg side and it's just all around better and more consistent. Honestly traction is my biggest issue at this point. With my lightweight wheels I cannot floor it anymore and not spin the tires even in 2nd gear... so once these burn off I will be looking for some better rubber.
I am looking to replace my wg actuator as well. From using them on previous boosted cars they provide and more refined boost delivery. What wheels and tires you have now? What bluespark setting do you use? Are you a manual or DCT car. Thanks for posting.
 

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I am pretty confident it isn't traceable. I'll let you guys know when I'm due for a scheduled maintenance and have to remove it.
What'd they say considering getting this tune as well just want to keep her under warranty
 

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If anyone is interested, I'm going to sell my bluespark. Make me a reasonable offer. Nothing wrong with it or how it works, I liked using it. Just going to move on to a bigger car eventually.
 
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