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Product page:
Regane® Complete Fuel System Cleaner – Gumout

gumout.com

Walmart sells it online for $4.44 USD:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gumout-Regane-Complete-Fuel-System-Cleaner-6oz-510014W/16888904
NOTE: The treatment packaging I use has GDI prominently displayed on the label; but the detail on Walmart's page says:

"CLEANS
GDI/direct and port/indirect fuel injectors, intake valves and ports, piston tops, cylinder heads, combustion chamber

CONDITIONS
Fuel to fight ethanol and water corrosion

PREVENTS
Future carbon buildup.

BEST FOR
Maximized performance and fuel economy in one fill-up, reduced emissions

DIRECTIONS
Oxygen sensor safe. Safe for use in turbocharged and supercharged vehicles. Will not void OEM/manufacturer’s warranty. Add entire bottle to nearly empty gasoline tank, then fill tank with up to 21 gallons of gasoline. For best results, do not refill tank until near empty. Use every 3,000 miles." (Emphases mine)

-zed
P.S.
I am not affiliated with, nor a paid promoter of Gumout. Their stuff just works.
 

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Thanks for the info. I have a manual and find that it acts up as others have mentioned. I try to remember to shut off the traction control and the stability control off. I try to run 93 octane when ever I can. Top Tier of course. I have heard that using a different weight oil in Hondas 1.5 turbo, 0-18 or 0-16, I dont recall at the moment, has stopped the oil/gas dilution problem that Honda has with the 1.5 turbo. I had one in 2017 and you could smell the gas on the dip stick. So I will try that next oil change. I think I will try re-gaping the plugs just a little. Winter tires are going on next week as it is getting a lot colder here in Michigan. LOL Very disapointed with Hyundai for not continuing the hatchback GT N Line. I really like the car. Has more to offer than the Civic si. And now has more power over the 2022 si
 

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Product page:
Regane® Complete Fuel System Cleaner – Gumout

gumout.com

Walmart sells it online for $4.44 USD:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gumout-Regane-Complete-Fuel-System-Cleaner-6oz-510014W/16888904
NOTE: The treatment packaging I use has GDI prominently displayed on the label; but the detail on Walmart's page says:

"CLEANS
GDI/direct and port/indirect fuel injectors, intake valves and ports, piston tops, cylinder heads, combustion chamber

CONDITIONS
Fuel to fight ethanol and water corrosion

PREVENTS
Future carbon buildup.

BEST FOR
Maximized performance and fuel economy in one fill-up, reduced emissions

DIRECTIONS
Oxygen sensor safe. Safe for use in turbocharged and supercharged vehicles. Will not void OEM/manufacturer’s warranty. Add entire bottle to nearly empty gasoline tank, then fill tank with up to 21 gallons of gasoline. For best results, do not refill tank until near empty. Use every 3,000 miles." (Emphases mine)

-zed
P.S.
I am not affiliated with, nor a paid promoter of Gumout. Their stuff just works.
I will give this a try also! Thanks again
 

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This goes back quite a few years but I think it’s relevant. In the early 80’s I was a property manager for Shell Oil co and they released their new premium gas at the time SU2000 and I fell for the hyperbole about how great it was and began using it in my 1984 Nissan Sentra. I learned quite a bit about gas, octane and gas additives back then. My Sentra started to lose performance about a year into using the SU2000 and it turned out that Shell was using a dye in the fuel that contributed to deposits, that plus using premium higher octane in an engine that didn’t require it also contributed to deposits.

I ended up using Harley Davidson combustion chamber cleaner in the car followed up with Multiple applications of Gumout Regane. Yes, Regane existed way back then. The two measures returned the cars performance back to new and I started using the Regane at every oil change. I had that car for over 12 years and 150,000 miles and the performance never suffered or declined after again. I sold the car to a coworker and he got another three years use trouble free until he dumped it because of bad body rust.

Regane is good stuff and that and not using fuel that has higher octane than required is what I do with my current vehicles.
 

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I tried the gumout. Still running through 1st tank that had the gumout added, but it really does seem smoother, down to about 1/2 tank right now. Only have 10,000 miles, catch can and breather bypass since about 4000, so I have been protecting the intake tract most of its life. However not much top tier gas around me, and the manual does say to treat the gas at every oil change if not available. Perhaps the injectors, fuel line, etc. are getting cleared up from the low grade fuel.
 

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Will_p:

GDIs are known to carbon up. Also, they don't much like ethanol, which is pretty much ubiquitous in gasolines today. Gumout Complete Fuel System treatment purports to address both those issues. I'm not a petrochemist. I just know it works, it ain't snake oil; but, I wouldn't use it beyond the manufacturer's recommendation: once every 3,000 miles. As to breaking down your cylinder heads or over-gapping your plugs -- as others are doing -- I just wouldn't. I'm pretty sure that would void my warranty and possibly ruin my engine. I've swapped out the OEM plugs and coil packs; but, I'm not otherwise gonna alter the car mechanically, for the same reason.

I can say that Gumout has made a significant improvement in my 2020 GT N-line and that I will use it religiously henceforth, as I did with my previous 2 Fiesta STs.

Happy motoring!

-zed
P.S.
I'm 63 years old and my daddy taught me to drive at the age of 8 in his sky blue Ford Falcon station wagon (3-speed satellite-shift manual, 'three on the tree') on an abandoned section of The Old Galveston Highway. When I was 13, I taught my mom how to drive... So, I've been around the block a couple times.
 

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Will_p:

GDIs are known to carbon up. Also, they don't much like ethanol, which is pretty much ubiquitous in gasolines today. Gumout Complete Fuel System treatment purports to address both those issues. I'm not a petrochemist. I just know it works, it ain't snake oil; but, I wouldn't use it beyond the manufacturer's recommendation: once every 3,000 miles. As to breaking down your cylinder heads or over-gapping your plugs -- as others are doing -- I just wouldn't. I'm pretty sure that would void my warranty and possibly ruin my engine. I've swapped out the OEM plugs and coil packs; but, I'm not otherwise gonna alter the car mechanically, for the same reason.

I can say that Gumout has made a significant improvement in my 2020 GT N-line and that I will use it religiously henceforth, as I did with my previous 2 Fiesta STs.

Happy motoring!

-zed
P.S.
I'm 63 years old and my daddy taught me to drive at the age of 8 in his sky blue Ford Falcon station wagon (3-speed satellite-shift manual, 'three on the tree') on an abandoned section of The Old Galveston Highway. When I was 13, I taught my mom how to drive... So, I've been around the block a couple times.
Your P.S. Made me smile. My father had a 63 Dodge Dart with the three on the tree and he decided to teach me to drive it. He was aghast that I knew how to drive it when we started. What he failed to realize and that I never told him, was that I had been working on an old Divco Milk truck with a guy as a runner For about a year. The old man that I worked with was an alcoholic and he had some customers on the route that he would personally take the order in and leave me in the truck with the engine running. These special stops would entail him being gone for 10-15 minutes and he’d return reeking of alcohol. While he’d be in these special stops, I had learned to drive that old Divco by driving it forward a few hundred feet and then backing it up to where I started. This gradually progressed into driving around the block as I got braver with time.
My ability to drive the truck came in handy more than a few times while working for him when he got so drunk on a few occasions that I had to drive the truck back to his home.
P.S. This was back in the early 60’s when I was 11 or 12 years old. I made five dollars a day every Saturday doing this for a couple of years. The days were long, we’d leave at dawn and it was not uncommon to go 12 hours or more to complete his route.
 

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I see what you're getting at, but I don't understand why it's a problem that can't be solved and we should all be interested in a proper solution. There seems to be varying levels of the same issue going around here, mine being particularly terrible. Turning off traction control helps a little mashing it from a stoplight, but when I trying to get from 60 to 70 on the highway, it doesn't do anything.

If anyone around here has a scanner of any sort, my guess is you'd look at the fuel trims and see they're super high. My combined fuel trims are usually 20% or higher at idle. So high there should be a code, but there never is. The car runs too rich. I can smell the sulfur all the time. It's either the factory time is F'ed or a sensor is lying throwing off the air/fuel mixture. The fact that it runs almost normal after you reset the computer points this out, so unless there's a massive air leak, which I've tested for many times, the trims should stay real close to zero in most conditions. And while some times, mashing the gas makes it move, there's a lot of times when it just falls flat on its face.
I've been driving vehicles with forced induction for 25 years and never ran into issues until GDI became a thing. (My 2017 Cruze also had issues where it would go into limp mode after driving for a day or two)
 

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Try one of these:

I got one before I figured out the car needed new plugs, coil-overs and Gumout (e.g., not the turbo's fault) and the tuner box really didn't do much with the car still in stock condition. Those easy upgrades improved the car so much I forgot to put it back on for a while. It's a 5-minute install, so I thought, why not try it again?

I did and now I'm completely fixed. Just absolutely trashing turboed lead sleds, trucks, SUVs... everything but motorcycles. Very sudden, hiccup free acceleration to over 100 MPH...

Closest I got to busting a knuckle was swapping out trash NGKs for Bosch iridiums. Closest I got to reprogramming my ECM was resetting code-trips with my phone via BT to OBDII. So simple, a girl could do it.

My car is now everything I hoped it might be when I bought it 4 mo/16K miles ago. Sometimes, less work is the more effective solution.

-zed
 

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To those who might be interested in TDI's box, some notes:

  1. It ships from Chelmsford, England, UK (The World, The Solar System, The Universe). I got it within a week, shipped free via DHL.
  2. Follow instructions carefully. For the GT-NL, it's only two bypass connectors. You will want to remove your filter box to reach one of the connectors (10mm socket x 4 bolts).
  3. 50 mile burn-in (or 1 leg of trip to work for me). After that, it has 'learned' your ECM/turbo data and gains set in. If you get impatient and start switching program modes before that, you're only going to disappoint yourself. Show a little restraint and you will be rewarded.
  4. Reverse the install before taking it for service (another 5 minutes) to avoid stink-eye, at the minimum. After service, when you get back home, let the engine cool down and reinstall tuner box.
  5. It's so simple to do, I don't even have to read the little instruction sheet anymore, after having installed and de-installed twice for dealership service.

Just remember to swap plugs and boots for premium grade ones and run at least 1 bottle of Gumout ($1.44 at Walmart), or you won't really see much alleviation of hiccupping throttle and limp-mode.

With all that done properly, the little car even roars a bit now, so you can shift by pitch rather than eyeballing the tach. ...Just the way I like it!

I've said my piece and I'm out.
-zed
 

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I got one before I figured out the car needed new plugs, coil-overs and Gumout (e.g., not the turbo's fault) and the tuner box really didn't do much with the car still in stock condition. Those easy upgrades improved the car so much I forgot to put it back on for a while. It's a 5-minute install, so I thought, why not try it again?
So if I'm reading this correctly, installing Bosch Iridium spark plugs, new coils, and using Gumout should have it running great without the need for the tuning box? The tuning box just makes it as fast as we all wish it could be?

What coils did you go with?
 

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bigmoderness:

"...MSD coils and Bosch double iridium plugs...". I got mine from Summit Racing website. That has smoothed out my acceleration curve.

The tuning box makes the car quick, sudden... which I value above 'fast'.
 

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So if I'm reading this correctly, installing Bosch Iridium spark plugs, new coils, and using Gumout should have it running great without the need for the tuning box? The tuning box just makes it as fast as we all wish it could be?

What coils did you go with?

It will run great until the electrode breaks off and toasts the engine.
 

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It will run great until the electrode breaks off and toasts the engine.
Probably improperly installed -- as Bosch determined in the Hyundai Kona owners' forum thread, from which full posting the excerpted repost above comes -- or ill-advisedly over-gapped as previously discussed in this thread...

Searched 100's of reviews before posting this. Europeans (Germans, in particular) love them and have nothing bad to say about them. They are even using them in i30s. NOTE: Most are '0 reviews' or 'has not been reviewed'. Still, if they were defectively manufactured, I should've found something negative and detailed. I did not.

I do, however, invite others to share any findings they may have, beyond the 1 Kona driver with 1 failed and 3 bad plugs. I'm mildly concerned over even 1 bad report.

According to NGK's 'fit your vehicle' for a 2020 Elantra GT N Line (mine precisely), the NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug 97080 is OEM compatible.
Website: https://www.ngk.com/ngk-97080-silzkr8e8g-laser-iridium-spark-plug (sells for $12.69 USD from NGK's website)

According to Bosch manufacturer's website's 'fit your vehicle' for my car, the Bosch Double Iridium Spark Plug YR6NI332S is certified as "
OE Replacement: meets or exceeds manufacturer design requirements for modern gasoline engines to provide OE fit, form and function."
Website: Double Iridium Spark Plugs | Bosch Auto Parts (sells for $11.99 USD each at Autozone, local or web)

Looks like stock reach is 26.4922mm (e.g., "26.5mm") or 1.043in. Both of these plugs are 26.5mm reach and have identical other physical dimensions. If they've been properly installed, either should perform admirably and provide a cost-effective improvement over stock plugs..

Let's not allow scare tactics to rule everything in our lives, okay?

-zed

P.S.
Mine runs like a beast, now, with the 3 changes I've made: MSD Ignition 826943 - MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coils (c. $150 free-shipped from Summit), Bosch Double Iridium Spark Plugs (c.$50 locally), and 5-minute install/removal TDI turbo tuner with Bluetooth, cuz I like changing the map on-the-fly from my phone (c. $375 free-shipped) . Y'all be careful with your hit-or-miss tinkering...

P.P.S
Here's the TDI website again, for those who might have missed it (NB: It ain't just a 'chip' and for our GTs it only tunes the turbo, not fuel supply/mixture, and leaves no trace in diagnostic logs. It's straight up magic.)
 

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The bosch are 2 heat ranges warmer than the OEM NGK and the plug clearly overheated. Do what you like im not risking it.
Pulled my plugs to inspect. Clean as a whistle. Don't know what y'all are doing wrong. You could always try the NGK Iridiums I listed above... or not, you know. Just stick with crappy stock NGKs and complain your car is balky and slower than it's got any right to be.
 

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That's correct a warmer heat range plug will keep clean easier because it gets warmer faster but will also cause detonation if it gets too hot. Just because a plug is stock doesn't make it cheap.
 
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