Hello, I just recently purchased a used certified pre-owned elantra gt sport with tech pk with 24k miles on it. Previously it was a leased vehicle. I've since put ~2k miles on it, just commuting to work and school. I live in the mountains and it gets to around 30f sometimes during nights being winter and all. I spend like 70% of my commute climbing up and down the mountain. At 2/2/2022 at 5:46pm after coming off my shift, the car displayed a check engine light. Grabbed a ob2 scanner, no codes showed. However I opened the hood and checked the engine oil and it smelled of gasoline. I wasn't expecting problems this early, with having bought it .... or financed it on 1/14/2022. I still have the 10y/100k miles warranty, however I think the 5y/60k warranty has expired now. Prior to the cel, there were some small problems like hesitation to accelerate with high rpm's from coming from a stop, but I thought that was just part of the quirks of the car and this being my first DCT and turbo'd car I kinda thought it was to be expected. Before buying the car I looked at the best ways to try and mitigate the issues the car had, like avoiding creeping in traffic and on inclines, drove mostly in manual mode, because I was afraid of the issues I read and heard about its unpredictable nature at times, but also because driving it that way felt more fun. I have a scheduled meeting with the nearest Hyundai dealer with me. The one I bought this car from is about 1 hour and 23 minutes away. What is the best course of action for this?
Used Elantra GT Sport DCT w TECH PK check engine light came on after 3 weeks of ownership
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Luckily, since this is clearly a drivetrain issue, the 10 year/100,000 mile warranty should apply. I had my share of problems with my 2020 EGT N-Line w/ Tech Pkg (e.g. DCT). Most of them revolved around faulty OEM coil packs. There's even a recall on the original OEM coilovers. Don't bother with the recall; they didn't fix the problem, at all. Get some proper ones (search term: MSD Ignition 826943) from Summit Racing ($158.95 for a set of 4, free shipping), or your preferred parts provider...
Eventually, I went back to the previously installed NGK SILZKR8E8G due to a couple of reports of problems with some Bosch plugs I had also installed. I reinstalled the original NGK plugs and had them fitment torque-checked by Hyundai Service...
I also use Gumout Regane Complete Fuel System Cleaner every 3,000 miles ($5 at Walmart), which has been hard to find lately for reasons unknown (prolly cuz it's the most effective full-system cleaner on the market). As a result of lack of Gumout stock, I've been forced to try 3 other highly rated and 3-times more expensive alternatives, all of which made the car run rougher and dropped MPG, compared to Gumout...
The only other thing I've done is get a turbo-tuner from TDI Tuning, DHL-shipped free out of Chelmsford, England; had it within 10 days. It's an apple pie-easy 5-minute install/uninstall (for when you take it to the Hyundai shop for sched maintenance). I got the Bluetooth add-on for on-the-fly map changes and simple OTA updates. I paid $500 for mine; right now, it can be had with BT for $391.93. Here's a direct link for our engine:
TDI Tuning | Hyundai Elantra 1.6 T-GDi CRTD4 MULTI Channel Petrol Tuning Box Chip ...
Lastly, for me and everybody else who has experienced these symptoms, we were definitely getting CELs with error codes for misfire cylinder 1, cylinder 3 and 'multi-cylinder misfire', virtually every time we put our foot down. If we were passing on a 2-lane and triggered a DCT downshift, the car would gag-choke-puke and go into crawl mode. NOT what you want from a sports car on an attempted high-speed pass with on-coming traffic! Unsafe and embarrassing AF...
How you are getting ZERO errors via OBDII scan is beyond me. I reckon you've either got a duff reader setup (i.e., cheap trash Bluetooth transceiver) or 'operator error'. Either way, you should DEFINITELY see your Hyundai service tech, ASAP. I've neither experienced nor read of "...checked the engine oil and it smelled of gasoline." That sounds potentially dangerous, to me, unless it's not actually on the dipstick, just that the odor is creeping into the engine bay from flooded, misfiring cylinders...
The good news is that after I made these changes, I've had no further recurrence of loss of power and combined city/hwy MPG 31.8 (29 city/35 hwy); if I draft a semi on the highway using only adaptive cruise, I get over 40 MPG. And...the car has become an absolute beast! With the TDI tuner, I drive in normal mode (no Sport mode) and let the DCT do all the shifting, unless I really need fine control of the power band to whup a Camaro or Mustang's butt like they were standing still... And I make those 2-lane passes from 60 to 100 MPH in less time than it takes to read this sentence! Just punch to 3/4 pedal, DCT smoothly downshifts twice and the car takes off like a rocket! (NB: I've never red-lined or WOT'd the engine). After the pass and blowoff, I flappy paddle from 5th to 7th with 2 secs in between... So, there's more than just hope for the platform.
In short, I finally got the Nürburgring-engineered hot hatch I wanted, but not without some research and c. $800 out-of-pocket. Money well-spent, thank God, cuz I really feared I might have spent $28K on an utter abortion.
P.S.
Why do I suddenly feel like Han Solo explaining how the Millennium Falcon is "...the ship that made the Kessel Run in less than twelve parsecs. I've outrun Imperial starships, not the local bulk-cruisers, mind you. I'm talking about the big Corellian ships now. She's fast enough for you, old man..."?
Eventually, I went back to the previously installed NGK SILZKR8E8G due to a couple of reports of problems with some Bosch plugs I had also installed. I reinstalled the original NGK plugs and had them fitment torque-checked by Hyundai Service...
I also use Gumout Regane Complete Fuel System Cleaner every 3,000 miles ($5 at Walmart), which has been hard to find lately for reasons unknown (prolly cuz it's the most effective full-system cleaner on the market). As a result of lack of Gumout stock, I've been forced to try 3 other highly rated and 3-times more expensive alternatives, all of which made the car run rougher and dropped MPG, compared to Gumout...
The only other thing I've done is get a turbo-tuner from TDI Tuning, DHL-shipped free out of Chelmsford, England; had it within 10 days. It's an apple pie-easy 5-minute install/uninstall (for when you take it to the Hyundai shop for sched maintenance). I got the Bluetooth add-on for on-the-fly map changes and simple OTA updates. I paid $500 for mine; right now, it can be had with BT for $391.93. Here's a direct link for our engine:
TDI Tuning | Hyundai Elantra 1.6 T-GDi CRTD4 MULTI Channel Petrol Tuning Box Chip ...
Lastly, for me and everybody else who has experienced these symptoms, we were definitely getting CELs with error codes for misfire cylinder 1, cylinder 3 and 'multi-cylinder misfire', virtually every time we put our foot down. If we were passing on a 2-lane and triggered a DCT downshift, the car would gag-choke-puke and go into crawl mode. NOT what you want from a sports car on an attempted high-speed pass with on-coming traffic! Unsafe and embarrassing AF...
How you are getting ZERO errors via OBDII scan is beyond me. I reckon you've either got a duff reader setup (i.e., cheap trash Bluetooth transceiver) or 'operator error'. Either way, you should DEFINITELY see your Hyundai service tech, ASAP. I've neither experienced nor read of "...checked the engine oil and it smelled of gasoline." That sounds potentially dangerous, to me, unless it's not actually on the dipstick, just that the odor is creeping into the engine bay from flooded, misfiring cylinders...
The good news is that after I made these changes, I've had no further recurrence of loss of power and combined city/hwy MPG 31.8 (29 city/35 hwy); if I draft a semi on the highway using only adaptive cruise, I get over 40 MPG. And...the car has become an absolute beast! With the TDI tuner, I drive in normal mode (no Sport mode) and let the DCT do all the shifting, unless I really need fine control of the power band to whup a Camaro or Mustang's butt like they were standing still... And I make those 2-lane passes from 60 to 100 MPH in less time than it takes to read this sentence! Just punch to 3/4 pedal, DCT smoothly downshifts twice and the car takes off like a rocket! (NB: I've never red-lined or WOT'd the engine). After the pass and blowoff, I flappy paddle from 5th to 7th with 2 secs in between... So, there's more than just hope for the platform.
In short, I finally got the Nürburgring-engineered hot hatch I wanted, but not without some research and c. $800 out-of-pocket. Money well-spent, thank God, cuz I really feared I might have spent $28K on an utter abortion.
P.S.
Why do I suddenly feel like Han Solo explaining how the Millennium Falcon is "...the ship that made the Kessel Run in less than twelve parsecs. I've outrun Imperial starships, not the local bulk-cruisers, mind you. I'm talking about the big Corellian ships now. She's fast enough for you, old man..."?
Give me a break.
Joined
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32 Posts
Inertia is a b*tch. "That which is at rest, tends to stay at rest. That which is in motion tends to stay in motion. The heavier a body is, the more force that is required to initiate/increase -- or decrease -- momentum of that body."
Curb weight of 2020 Ford Mustang Ecoboost is 3,532lbs. and produces 310 horsepower and 350 lb-ft of torque.
Curb weight of the base 2.0-liter turbocharged 5-cylinder 2020 Chevy Camaro is 3,696 lbs. and produces 275 horsepower and 295 pound-feet of torque.
Curb weight of the Elantra GT N-Line w/ tech pkg is 3,067 lbs. (making it almost 500 lbs lighter than the 'Stang and over 600 lbs lighter than the Cammy) and produces 201 horsepower and 195 lb-ft of torque, OEM-spec. With the TDI Tuning turbo tuner, HP & torque rise to 251 WHP and 240 ft-pounds of torque...
So, yeah, I'm quicker to cruising speed by a comfortable margin. Of course, driver skill plays a part and most of the "big meat" drivers' style equates to 'stomp on pedal, shift at/above redline', with no appreciation of power/torque curve 'sweet spots'. Do I drag race it at a track in the 1/4 mile, against anything? No, never. Do I ever go above speed limit + 10%? No, never. But with the safe, removable turbo tuner, the g-force on acceleration is incredible...
Again, I'm now completely satisfied with this Hyundai 'sleeper' hot hatch, and I come from Fiesta STs (my curb weight less than 2,500 lbs.) -- also Ken Block's preferred 'sleeper' hatch -- which they no longer sell in the Americas. Used to whip Camaros and 'Stangs in them, too. Almost beat a Lexus RC F 2-DR AWD coupe in a FiST, once, from a stop light. Lost by half a car-length, straight-line to 70 MPH (before my 80° on-ramp), but got a thumbs up out of his drivers' side window for the effort. He was a proficient driver in a $70K sports car, so I didn't mind at all... Most drivers are effectively asleep at the wheel and/or just plain ignorant of vehicle dynamics and easy pickings on the street.
P.S.
Know what Formula 1 designers spend millions of dollars on, trying to make their cars faster? HP/Torque, you might guess. Nope. Weight reduction and drag coefficient!
Wanna make your car faster? Go with lighter rims/tires. This is called 'unsprung weight' and reducing it has the effect of reducing gross weight by an equivalent of 4 lbs. per pound reduced. So, changing out the OEM ~47 lb. rims/tires for Enkei Racing RPF1, 17 1/2-lb rims and low rolling resistance Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 PLUS 225/40ZR18 coming in at 40.5 lbs per rim/tire... times 4 for each wheel... x 4 for lower unsprung weight = an 104 lb. effective weight reduction for acceleration, braking and cornering. It's the best c. $2,000 you'll ever spend; just keep the perfectly trashy OEM rims/Hankook's for backups... Additionally, you could lose some body weight, too, fatboys.
Helpful evidentiary links:
How Do Lightweight Wheels Affect Your Car's Performance?
Why does wheel weight matter? Lightweight wheels can have a huge effect on any vehicle's acceleration, braking, and cornering abilities.
-zed
I was referring to your blanket statement that you could whup Camaros and Mustangs like they were standing still. You make no mention that there are other than 4 cyl (not 5 as you state) Camaros and Mustangs. Mine for example has 455 HP and 455 Lb Ft. Being that I own both a GT Nline and a Camaro SS, I see no way that adding a tune to my Hyundai would make it "whup my Camaro like it was standing still" Do not make generalized statements.
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32 Posts
ron-n:
I was actually giving benefit of doubt by going with the lightest weight versions of those cars. The base Mustang Ecoboost sounds most intriguing and at a similar price-point ($27K) to my GT N-Line (I paid $23K), but the fuel efficiency (21c/29h/24comb per fueleconomy.gov) is unacceptable for a daily 100-mile driver.
If I'm paying $10K more for a more powerful drivetrain, I'd rather spend it on a Veloster N (275HP/260 ft-lbs, 0-60 MPH under 5 secs) for $33.5K, and those specs are not far above my GT N-Line with TDI turbo booster (250 WHP/241 ft-lbs on a 'rolling road' dyno, my avg 32.1 MPG). Likewise, those other, more powerful versions of those of 'Stangs and Cammys (your 2SS: c. $42K new, curb weight 3,937 lbs., RWD, 0-60 in 3.5 secs with a proficient driver on a meticulously manicured track...and 14c/20h/16comb (ibid) would drive me -- albeit really rapidly -- into the poorhouse/loss of license/insurance hell) weigh in at upwards of 2 1/4 tons!
It's all about power-to-weight ratios, as shown in the video links I provided, wherein a simple ~2,500 lb. FiST beat a Dodge Hellcat in a quarter-mile track drag race, as well as other 'muscle cars' with full bolt-ons and a 150-lb nitrous boost, etc.
I say again: Inertia is a b*tch...
...That's why most cars -- with whatever powerplant -- have exactly zero shot at beating even a 750cc/.75L motorcycle in a flat out quarter-mile run. Motorcycles are the pinnacle of power-to-weight ratio! (NB: They're just not survivable or practical, and I've got the limp and scars to prove it.)
P.S.
I think both the Camaro and Mustang are sweet-looking cars, and I've owned both in the past and enjoyed driving them, a Trans Am and a beautiful, beastly GTO 455 ('Gas-Tires-and-Oil'), from my teenage years to early-30's (sold my last Cammy in 1989 when I PCS'd to England)... they're just a bit on the 'lead sled' side for my tastes these days, especially for just driving around town, where agility and 'suddenness' are at a premium for my driving style (a.k.a., 'complete maniac', just ask my wife). Give me a high power-to-weight ratio Shelby Cobra, any day. I want a whippet, not an Arabian stallion in traffic. And I have taken a barking and bucking Mustang 5.0 from a stoplight on a crappy-surface Kansas divided 4-lane; but, I have to admit it sure sounded beautiful-angry Dopplering away in my 6 o'clock, and roared past me like I was standing still when I throttled off at speed limit +10% (55 MPH). Fortunately for him, no cops about. So, um... they sound nice?
Enjoy your cars, mate! Different strokes, right?
-zed
P.P.S.
My 'other car' is a 2020 Ford Explorer ST (0-60 5.2 secs, 400 BHP/415 ft-lb 'engine' dyno, computerized AWD, curb weight 4,859 lbs. my avg. 19.1 MPG), that I recently got into a 20-mile 'hares and hounds' match with a quartet of Lamborghinis through dense traffic on Houston's downtown I-45 going to Galveston. That was fun! Ah, Texas: Where the men are drivers and the women cover their eyes and pray for deliverance...
I was actually giving benefit of doubt by going with the lightest weight versions of those cars. The base Mustang Ecoboost sounds most intriguing and at a similar price-point ($27K) to my GT N-Line (I paid $23K), but the fuel efficiency (21c/29h/24comb per fueleconomy.gov) is unacceptable for a daily 100-mile driver.
If I'm paying $10K more for a more powerful drivetrain, I'd rather spend it on a Veloster N (275HP/260 ft-lbs, 0-60 MPH under 5 secs) for $33.5K, and those specs are not far above my GT N-Line with TDI turbo booster (250 WHP/241 ft-lbs on a 'rolling road' dyno, my avg 32.1 MPG). Likewise, those other, more powerful versions of those of 'Stangs and Cammys (your 2SS: c. $42K new, curb weight 3,937 lbs., RWD, 0-60 in 3.5 secs with a proficient driver on a meticulously manicured track...and 14c/20h/16comb (ibid) would drive me -- albeit really rapidly -- into the poorhouse/loss of license/insurance hell) weigh in at upwards of 2 1/4 tons!
It's all about power-to-weight ratios, as shown in the video links I provided, wherein a simple ~2,500 lb. FiST beat a Dodge Hellcat in a quarter-mile track drag race, as well as other 'muscle cars' with full bolt-ons and a 150-lb nitrous boost, etc.
I say again: Inertia is a b*tch...
...That's why most cars -- with whatever powerplant -- have exactly zero shot at beating even a 750cc/.75L motorcycle in a flat out quarter-mile run. Motorcycles are the pinnacle of power-to-weight ratio! (NB: They're just not survivable or practical, and I've got the limp and scars to prove it.)
P.S.
I think both the Camaro and Mustang are sweet-looking cars, and I've owned both in the past and enjoyed driving them, a Trans Am and a beautiful, beastly GTO 455 ('Gas-Tires-and-Oil'), from my teenage years to early-30's (sold my last Cammy in 1989 when I PCS'd to England)... they're just a bit on the 'lead sled' side for my tastes these days, especially for just driving around town, where agility and 'suddenness' are at a premium for my driving style (a.k.a., 'complete maniac', just ask my wife). Give me a high power-to-weight ratio Shelby Cobra, any day. I want a whippet, not an Arabian stallion in traffic. And I have taken a barking and bucking Mustang 5.0 from a stoplight on a crappy-surface Kansas divided 4-lane; but, I have to admit it sure sounded beautiful-angry Dopplering away in my 6 o'clock, and roared past me like I was standing still when I throttled off at speed limit +10% (55 MPH). Fortunately for him, no cops about. So, um... they sound nice?
Enjoy your cars, mate! Different strokes, right?
-zed
P.P.S.
My 'other car' is a 2020 Ford Explorer ST (0-60 5.2 secs, 400 BHP/415 ft-lb 'engine' dyno, computerized AWD, curb weight 4,859 lbs. my avg. 19.1 MPG), that I recently got into a 20-mile 'hares and hounds' match with a quartet of Lamborghinis through dense traffic on Houston's downtown I-45 going to Galveston. That was fun! Ah, Texas: Where the men are drivers and the women cover their eyes and pray for deliverance...
Did the oil actually look diluted with gas and was it overfull ? My oil always smells like gas and I run 2 catch cans but its never diluted and the level never changes. If the check engine light didn't stay on and there's no apart issues the dealer isn't going to do anything.
Took it to the dealer, they said it was an EVAP leak p0455 and said it must be the gas cap. Cleared the code and sent me on my way. As of 2/26/2022, it came back on. Looked at the Elantra Sport forum and some of them have found that it was the charcoal canister or the vapor canister purge valve. Most of them being from canada and say that the valve may have cracked from the cold weather. It gets down to about 30f at night here, so I guess its likely that this might be the case. The car was originally in Pasadena as a lease before I got my hands on it, so hardly any worry about extreme cold weather even during the winter there. I bought a replacement gas cap, part number 31010-3L600, just to make sure that it is just the cap causing the issue. Would clearing the code on my own, voiding any sort of warranty or claim I have should I bring it in for warranty work?
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