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Tuning box vs ECU Tune

43K views 78 replies 20 participants last post by  RickySpanish  
I’ve heard from other forums to avoid the Race setting just to avoid potential engine issues
Is it possible to point me to those forums? TIA....I would like to see what they say. I will be raising my oct level to approx 93 and changing the plugs to a colder set. Sounds like the Scorcher maybe set up a little more aggressive on the "race" setting then the Bluespark boxes.
 
Installed my scorcher module this week and really like the response it has given the car. I picked up a used one for $200 less. Installed with it a Takeda stage 2 CAI. It provided the slight induction noise I was looking for and now can hear the turbo spool. Swapped out plugs for the colder recommended set and went through the different module programs. Race mode gets with it pretty good! Just going to leave it in sport mode as it provides a good response until I get about 600 more miles on it and do a oil change. Want to do some 1/4 mile runs as I have seen others get into the low 14's with a similar DCT set up. Coming from a Fiesta ST this is impressive.
 
Well that kind of kills the "plug and play" idea though, that you can just "unhook" the box when you take it in for service, now you've got a BOV and wastegate solenoid to uninstall to bring it back to stock...
I agree that it defeats the plug and play aspect. Just changing the intake and adding the module with colder plugs is all I am doing. When you say it feels unregulated what do you mean. Have you driven other turbo cars to compare it to? Most boost comes in early and mid-range. Comparable to a Fiesta ST I used to drive. My Evo was setup late midrange to mid range hit. I am still getting used to boost in a non-manual car. Different sensation but have found leaving it in sport mode it works best for me.
 
Yes I did and I have checked up on it. Having owned a modded Fiesta ST and Evo I understand the precautions. Was able to get over there and read all the posts. Allot of info there like you said. Thanks for the heads up. Only have 500 miles on it and just enjoy being in sport mode for now running on 91 oct. Didn't think I would be able to find something as reasonably priced and fun as a Fiesta ST but I think I have. Both have their high points but ESGT N-line is more reasonable to live with day to day. Also being DCT my wife can drive it.
 
I ran an E30 tune in my Fiesta ST. The FiST only has a 12 gallon tank so I would add about 3 gallons of E-85 per empty tank. I used a calculator app for in between fill ups. On our tank which is 14 gallons I would figure 4 gallons would bump you up to at least 93 oct equivalent. Here is a link to a calculator:
Have used E85 on all my boosted cars. My Evo made 450 whp with it.
 
I'm well aware of the difference between a solenoid and the actual wastegate or BOV. Factory techs are trained to look for non OEM stuff, so you are betting against them finding it.

The wastegate solenoid does not look stock, it has rubber hoses now with zip ties. Zip ties on the ends is a dead giveaway. The MAC BOV solenoid does not fit in the original bracket, so it just kind of hangs there, again, that doesn't look stock at all.

Hey, nothing bad against these parts, I just installed mine today, but this is the game you play when you mod a car and this is definitely modding. My main reason for doing it is to smooth out the power delivery. It's jumpy like my old WRX was from the factory.
So was it able to smooth things out for you?
 
The "boost" boxes will never be better than an actual "good" tune. Coming from the Evo world I have spent countless hours on a dyno and road tuning my '06 Evo IX. I have tuned and been tuned on 91 oct, 100 oct and E-85.
Fast forward to my N-line. Nowadays dealers are on to tuned vehicles. I will not invest into an additional ECU to have it available to swap out in the event I need to. Plus the cost of having someone tune it that puts the cost over 1K which is not in the cards for me. For anyone else who wants this then great.....enjoy.
The piggyback serves its purpose fine to me. Heck in the early days guys would just use a manual boost controller and step up boost that way. Now the piggyback senses and does this. If you run one with precautions you will be fine. I changed to the recommended plugs and run over 91 oct if I go to Sport+ or Race settings. I will upgrade the wastegate solenoid as all have mentioned as the stocker starts stuttering and is inconsistent. I intend on getting a boost gauge and start doing some logging as well.
Since I only paid $250 for my scorcher and $277 for my Takata stg 2 intake I am happy with the performance/fun factor. Can't see getting anymore performance since N-line is just FWD and a single tire fryer.
So does the Bluespark have 4 settings too? Scorcher has Stock, Sport, Sport+ and Race. I assume A,B,C and D may correlate to about the same on the Bluespark.
 
Been driving with the bluespark for a while now. Has made a huge difference, then added a pierburg valve in the wg side and it's just all around better and more consistent. Honestly traction is my biggest issue at this point. With my lightweight wheels I cannot floor it anymore and not spin the tires even in 2nd gear... so once these burn off I will be looking for some better rubber.
I am looking to replace my wg actuator as well. From using them on previous boosted cars they provide and more refined boost delivery. What wheels and tires you have now? What bluespark setting do you use? Are you a manual or DCT car. Thanks for posting.